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Tuesday, 28 July 2015

REVIEW: Mitsubishi Triton GLX Club Cab Chassis 4WD


Mitsubishi Triton GLX Club Cab Chassis 4WD
Road Test

The light commercial utility market is in for a big year. The fifth-generation Mitsubishi Triton will join the brand new Nissan Navara, updated Ford Ranger and Mazda BT-50, all-new Toyota HiLux and refreshed Holden Colorado before the year's out, all of which will face solid competition from Volkswagen's Amarok and the trade-tough Isuzu D-MAX. But it's the Triton that's the focus of this test and, as we found this week, even the base model GLX cab-chassis has a heck of a lot to offer. The Mitsubishi Triton range kicks off from $24,490 (plus on-road costs).

Australians love their utes. We have an annual festival to bask in its resplendent pragmatism and buy shed loads of them each year, often whether we have cause to or not. But for the humble cab-chassis – without its exhaust stacks, R M Williams mudflaps and VB dash runners – the focus is more straightforward. It's the workhorse of the range, built to do a job, and often treated as little more than an unloved tool of the trade.

It's quite surprising, then, how well-endowed the base-model ute has become. For a bit of kit designed primarily to cart its master and his tools from one job to the next, utes like the Mitsubishi Triton GLX have become very nearly as composed as their SUV lookalikes, while at the same time retaining every last ounce of the carrying capacity and towing ability at the heart of their existence.

For the new MQ-series Triton, those numbers see a payload of 1125kg and a braked tow figure of 3100kg. Mitsubishi is aware that the latter falls short of the 3500kg offered by some rivals, but says its higher GCM (5785kg) means the Triton will tow the full figure quoted with up to 680kg of load in the tray – something many rivals are unable to (legally) do. [Ed: figures quoted are specific to the Club Cab GLX tested and are not typical to the range. Please visit the manufacturer's website for more information].

And from the point of view of the occupants, it's impressive to note that the ride remains composed and quiet in spite of the beefed-up double wishbone (front) / leaf (rear) suspension the Triton obviously requires. Considering the vehicle is designed to travel off-road, carry a load, tow and also run around empty, the suspension compromise is remarkably good. You of course notice the firmer rear-end, but it's not what you'd call uncomfortable and manages to smooth-out surface imperfections nicely, even when the tray is unladen.

It's an experience complemented by the Triton's sensible ergonomics and a cabin in which it's easy to spend a few hours. The outward vision is pretty good for a vehicle of its height, the grab handles welcome and the slightly larger cabin's seating comfortable with excellent support (and yes, I'm talking about the front pews and not the temporary jobbies in the back). The dash layout too is straightforward with simple instrumentation and a no-nonsense HVAC and infotainment array, though we might add that the look has changed little from the Triton's predecessor, and in view of its contemporaries is a little conservative.

Not unusually, the tray-bodied model on test did have issues with the rearward vision from its wing mirrors, though not for the reason you'd expect. Mitsubishi has built a clever spacer to give the wing mirrors the clearance required to see around the tray (which sits proud of the body). However, the draft created between the cabin and the tray seems to create an unusual eddy current which sucks road mist from the front wheel back on to the mirror glass, rendering the mirrors effectively useless in wet weather. It's an unusual oversight, and one that's made all the more annoying by the omission of heated mirrors on the base grade.

Mitsubishi's new 2.4-litre turbo-diesel is an effective unit with next to no turbo lag and a broader torque band than its numbers would suggest. It's claimed that the full whack of 430Nm is on offer at 2500rpm, though we found most of that twist was accessible from idle, giving the Triton a smooth run from a standstill. On the open road there's enough pep for overtaking, most of it available without the need to shift gear. The direct-injected engine develops peak power of 133kW at 3500rpm, meaning most overtaking manoeuvres and hill climbs are readily managed in top (sixth) gear.

The gearshift itself is clean and the throw suitable for the Triton's workhorse application. It's actually a tidier shift than the Ranger and BT-50, and I'd say better than the Colorado's too [Ed: wait for our upcoming comparison for more on this]. Add this to a progressive pedal stroke from the clutch and well-metered brakes and it's obvious Mitsubishi has done a great deal to make the new Triton appealing to trade and recreational buyers alike.

On the downside, however, we found the Triton's fuel consumption to be well below the claimed mark. Mitsubishi's ADR Combined figure quotes 7.2L/100km, though on test – and in spite of the majority of our driving spent on the highway without a load up back – we managed 10.2. Perhaps the gearing isn't quite set for cruising at 110km/h or the aerodynamics of the open tray is creating drag. Either way, the figure was substantially higher than our around town figure of 8.1L/100km. Quite peculiar, we must say.

When it comes to parking the Triton was fairly easy to manoeuvre and see around, though reversing sensors would have been nice in tight parallel parks. The carry-over 3000mm wheelbase and 11.8m turning circle (and 3.8 turns lock to lock) make it easy to get in and out of even the tightest city parking buildings, and on fire trails made squeezing around fallen trees a breeze. The steering itself is well assisted with adequate feel both on and off-road. It really is an impressive set-up.

On the whole we found the Triton to be vastly improved – to be expected, given it's been 10 years since we last had a new one. It's a roomier, more composed and more competent light commercial and one that has narrowed the gap on its competitors considerably. Whether that's enough to see it topple its rivals, or steal the stage at Deniliquin, remains to be seen. Though our tip is it'll come really close – on both counts!


2015 Mitsubishi Triton GLX Club Cab Chassis 4WD pricing and specifications:
Price:
$35,290 (plus on-road costs)
Engine: 2.4-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel
Output: 133kW / 430Nm
Transmission: Six-speed manual
Fuel: 7.2L/100km (ADR Combined)
CO2: 191g/km (ADR Combined)
Safety Rating: Five-star ANCAP


Credits: Motoring

Monday, 27 July 2015

Understanding VIN Reports, Terms And Their Meaning


What Is A VIN ?

VIN simply means Vehicle Identification Number. Each car or truck manufactured after 1980 has been stamped by the manufacturer with a unique VIN. The VIN is unique to the vehicle the way your fingerprint is unique to you, and the VIN, you can check the vehicle history and full report.

Locating the VIN
The VIN is located in a number of places on a car, but most commonly on the dashboard (you can see it through the windshield) and the driver's side door jamb sticker. On some vehicles the VIN is also placed on the engine, hood, and other parts.

The VIN may also appear on car titles, insurance policies, service records and police reports for the vehicle.

Why Is A VIN Report Important ?
it is Important to Check a Vehicles History Before Purchase these days, Most times Most of Us Don't Understand the Meaning of the Terms used in these Reports, We Shall Chronicle the Detailed meanings of each term used in VIN Reports So we can Understand them better.

Every VIN Report contains important information that can impact your decision about a used vehicle.

There are many things a seller may not disclose to you, such as a salvage title, junk title or flood damage. Any of these and other issues can affect the safety, performance and even value of a used car.

To make it more difficult for you to learn a vehicle's history, crooked sellers may list the wrong VIN in an online vehicle posting or may not be willing to provide the VIN at all. Scam artists may also alter the vehicle's title documents to hide potential problems.

VIN Reports Term & Meaning

 JUNK TITLE
The Vehicle is Incapable of Safe Operation for use on roads or highways and has no resale value except as a source of parts or scrap, or the vehicle's owner has irreversable designated the Vehicle as a soirce of parts or scrap.

This vehicle shall NEVER be Registered.

Also known as Non-repairable, scrapped, or Destroyed.

SALVAGED - DAMAGE OR NOT SPECIFIED
Any Vehicle which has been wrecked, destroyed or damaged, to the extent that the total estimated or actual cost of parts and labor to rebuild or reconstruct the vehicle to its pre-accident condition and for legal operation on roads or highway exceeds a defined percentage of the retail value of the vehicle.

Salvage-Damage or Not Specified also includes any Vehicle to which an insurance company acquires ownership pursuant to a damage settlement, or any vehicle that the vehicle owner may wish to designate as a salvage vehicle by obtaining a salvage title, without regard to extent of the vehicle's damage or repairs, or any vehicle for which the jurisdiction cannot distinguish the reason the Vehicle was designated Salvage

COLLISION
Vehicle Damaged by Collision

REBUILT
The Vehicle previously branded "salvage" has passed anti-theft and safety Inspections to ensure the Vehicle was rebuilt to required standards.

FLOOD DAMAGE
Vehicle Damaged by freshwater flood ( or it is unknown whether the damage was caused by freshwater or Salt Water).

LIEN REPORTED
Vehicle has a reported lien or outstanding loan through a lender or lenders

RECOVERED THEFT
Vehicle is reported to have been previously stolen in eiher the US, Canada or Mexico and later recovered.

ACTUAL THEFT
Vehicle is reported to be an active theft in either the US, Canada, or Mexico.

TOTAL LOSS
Vehicle has been reported to be a Total Loss vehicle by an Insurance Company.

CRUSHED
The Frame or Chassis of the Vehicle has been crushed or otherwise destroyed so that it is physically Impossible to USE it in Constructing a vehicle.

TOTALED
A Vehicle that is declared a total loss by a jurisdiction or an insurer that is obligated to cover the loss or that the Insurer takes possession of or title to.

REPOSSESSED
 This indicates that the 'owner' is no longer able to make the agreed to pay in installment for the car causing the bank or lender to repossess it.

VEHICLE CONTAINS RE ISSUED VIN
The Chassis VIN has been re issued, i.e The same VIN is re used.

DISMANTLED
The Vehicle can only be sold as parts and can not be legally driven.

FIRE DAMAGE
Vehicle Damaged by Fire

HAIL DAMAGE
Vehicle Damaged by Hail.

TEST VEHICLE
The Vehicle is built and retained by the manufacturer for testing.

REFURBISHED
Any vehicle Modified by the Installation of a new cab and chassis for the existing coach which has been renovated, resulting in a vehicle of greater value or a vehicle with a new style.

Sunday, 26 July 2015

Fiat Chrysler Recalls 1.4 million Cars After Jeep Hack





On Friday, Chrysler announced that it’s issuing a formal recall for 1.4 million vehicles that may be affected by a hackable software vulnerability in Chrysler’s Uconnect dashboard computers. The recall doesn’t actually require Chrysler owners to bring their cars, trucks and SUVs to a dealer. Instead, they’ll be sent a USB drive with a software update they can install through the port on their vehicle’s dashboard.

 Security researchers Charlie Miller and Chris Valasek demonstrated that it was possible for hackers to control a Jeep Cherokee remotely, using the car's entertainment system which connected to the mobile data network.


The two security researchers have spent years investigating car control systems and developing ways to subvert them. The pair are due to reveal more information about their work at the Def Con hacker conference next month.

Chrysler had already issued a patch in a software update for its vehicles last week, but announced it with a vague press release on its website only. A recall, by contrast, means all affected customers will be notified about the security vulnerability and urged to patch their software. “The recall aligns with an ongoing software distribution that insulates connected vehicles from remote manipulation, which, if unauthorized, constitutes criminal action,” writes a Chrysler spokesperson in an email.
In its press statement about the recall, Chrysler offered the following list of vehicles that may be affected:
  • 2013-2015 MY Dodge Viper specialty vehicles
  • 2013-2015 Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 pickups
  • 2013-2015 Ram 3500, 4500, 5500 Chassis Cabs
  • 2014-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and Cherokee SUVs
  • 2014-2015 Dodge Durango SUVs
  • 2015 MY Chrysler 200, Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger sedans
  • 2015 Dodge Challenger sports coupes

In its statement, Chrysler also said that to its knowledge the hacking technique Miller and Valasek had developed is highly sophisticated. It also pointed out that hacking its vehicles wasn’t easy. That’s true: Miller and Valasek had worked on their Jeep hacking exploit for over a year. “The software manipulation addressed by this recall required unique and extensive technical knowledge, prolonged physical access to a subject vehicle and extended periods of time to write code,” reads Chrysler’s statement.

In one less credible part of the statement, however, Chrysler also claims that “no defect has been found,” and that “[Fiat Chrysler Automobiles] is conducting this campaign out of an abundance of caution.”

How To Get Rid Of Annoying Car Sensor Noise

Reverse parking sensors in cars may begin to malfunction slightly in if you've been involved in  a little accident or taken a little hit from behind. Although it can also begin to malfunction with time. This causes it to start beeping continuously. The noise of these indicators can be annoying and also dangerous if not fixed.

If you find out that your car sensor is still making noise, then it might probably have dropped out of position. Since most rear parking sensor are 4 in number, and with new cars they seem to drop out of the position, but they would be still hanging since they are connected to the electrical wire. When you put your car into reverse, even when its clear of anything it still makes the sound due the one that dropped out of its position. In such cases you just put the car on the lifter and look for the hanging sensor and put it back in position but you need to find out why it dropped first. (a qualified car mechanic will be required here).

The fact that your car is making noise means the sensor is there still hanging underneath the car. Spotting the dropped sensor and getting it into the right position will solve this problem.





How To Check Expiry Date For Your Car Tyres


At some point in time, you might be wondering how to check the expiry date of your car tyre. Tyres have expiry date. To start with, vehicle tyre have a 4-year validity period from their Date of Manufacture (DOM). Thereafter, the tyre expires and may burst whilst in use.

How to find out whether your tyre has expired?

First, check for a stamp like this: (*0504*). There is an asterisk at the beginning and at the end of this serial number (Some tires don't have asterisk).

The First two digits are the week so 0504 is fifth week in 2004. Therefore, *0504* shows that the said tyre is manufactured in the 5th week of the year 2004.

Check all your tires for safety purposes. Do not use expired tires. They are likely to burst, especially when running in hot weather because the rubber component may have hardened and cracked.

Hope this helps!

5 Ways Your Motor Mechanic Can Rip You Off


Some mechanics are non professional, others are just ‘Careful thieves’. Either way you don’t want to be in a business with any of the two types of mechanic. These two types of mechanic can frustrate you. Here are the top 5 ways your mechanic can rip you off. If any of this has happened to you before, then its definitely time to change mechanic

1. Charging for unnecessary repairs : I often hear that a mechanic diagnosed a problem, repaired it and surprisingly the problem still remains. They then re-diagnose it as a different problem and repair that. Sometimes, this repeats as the mechanic conducts the Ship of Theseus paradox in real life. Eventually, the mechanic repairs the original fault but charges the customer for all the repairs. As your gut is telling you, the mechanic shouldn’t charge the customer for the earlier unnecessary repairs.

2. Overcharging for parts or labor : Most mechanic shops have a simple markup on parts. They buy them wholesale, mark them up and sell them to you with the job. The problem is that few people know the amount the actual part should cost. They also charge an outrageous amount for labor.

3. Misdiagnosing something that is not faulty : Sometimes to increase their bills, mechanics will tell a customer non-defective parts need to be replaced. Your brakes need to be resurfaced, they’ll tell you to get them replaced. Other parts on the car can be repaired, they’ll suggest replacement. Like unnecessary repairs, unneeded parts being sold to you is also illegal in Michigan and many other states.

4. Joyriding your car. This goes on more often than you want to know. Does every mechanic joyride the car after a repair? No. But this is one of the things we are really learning more about with the advent of dash cameras. The problem is that if you catch the mechanic doing this and your car is undamaged, it is hard to get compensated for it.

5. Stealing from your car. I’ve heard of all kinds of things being stolen from customer cars while the cars were in for service. Everything from change in the ashtray to a wallet from the car while the customer was talking to the service writer. Stereos being pried from dashboards. Or customers who find performance parts removed from their engines. Cool wheels often disappear. Shops often ask customers to file insurance claims on these. But – as you might guess – that’s not how this goes. The shop is on the hook since they had control and possession of your car. We’ve covered this before.

So, if you have been ripped off by a mechanic in other ways apart from the above listed, share with us using the comment box.

Ford Motor Service Centers In Nigeria


Servicing your #Ford is just as easy as driving one. 

Below are locations of some Ford Service centers in Nigeria

THE FORD CENTRE LEKKI
Plot 2, Block 94
Providence Road
Lekki Phase 1,
Lagos.

Tel: Sales Team
+234 8174592282
+234 8174588687 
+234 8092194617

+234 8174592887



ABUJA BRANCH
Plot 410 Cadastral Zone, Airport Junction, Opposite Oando Filling Station, Jabi District, Abuja.

Mobile: +234 8174592863, 8093936340, 8033021724

PORT HARCOURT BRANCH
314, Port Harcourt Aba Expressway, Rumukwurushi, Port Harcourt, Rivers State.

Mobile: +234 (084) 779411, 8093936341, 8093936546,

Fax: +234 (084) 238116

KANO BRANCH
502, Independence Road,
P.O. Box 31, Kano
Kano, State.

Mobile: +234 (064) 8174592863, 8093936340, 8033021724.

IKEJA BRANCH
20, Mobolaji Bank Anthony Way,
Ikeja, Lagos. 
P.O. Box 2104 Tel: 234 1 7924798,
Mobile:

+234 8174592280 
+234 8174593055 
+234 8093936626

+234 8093936641

+234 8174592283

+234 8093936401


Fax:+234 1 2793216

Email: ford@rtbriscoe.com


or  fordsales@rtbriscoe.com

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